A
major donation exhibition by Geum Kisook, a pioneering figure in Korea’s first
generation of fashion art, will be held at the Seoul Museum of Craft Art from
December 23, 2025, through March 15, 2026. Titled《Dancing, Dreaming,
Enlightening》, the exhibition presents 56 works from 55
donated holdings, offering a concentrated overview of more than four decades of
artistic exploration.
The
exhibition traces Geum’s trajectory from early experimental “art garments” to
her signature wire dresses, sculptural reinterpretations of hanbok, ‘Upcycling’
series, and extensive archival materials. As the museum’s second large-scale
donation exhibition since its opening, the presentation carries institutional
significance, situating fashion art within the broader discourse of Korean
craft and contemporary art history.

Installation view,《Dancing, Dreaming, Enlightening》 / Photo : Seoul Museum of Craft Art
Baekmae, a work inspired by the white plum blossom tree in the garden. Encountered at the entrance of the exhibition, this piece invites viewers to engage more deeply with the artist’s world through memories from her childhood. / Photo : Seoul Museum of Craft Art
From
Garment to Form, From Form to Space
In
the early 1990s, Geum reinterpreted the concept of “art garments” within a
distinctly Korean cultural framework, expanding clothing beyond functionality
into the domain of sculptural practice. Employing nontraditional
materials—wire, beads, translucent ramie, sequins, and discarded objects—she
moved beyond the paradigm of “Art to Wear” and articulated an autonomous field
she defined as “Fashion Art.”
A
defining public moment came during the opening ceremony of the 2018 PyeongChang
Winter Olympics, where her Snow Flower Fairy costume for the
placard bearer captured international attention. Drawing upon the fluid lines
and structural logic of hanbok, the work rendered crystalline snow and
refracted light through intricately woven wire and beads. Presented on a global
stage, it demonstrated how fashion could function as pure form within a civic
spectacle.

At the opening ceremony of the PyeongChang Winter Olympics on the 9th, a “KOREA” placard bearer enters the stadium alongside athletes from South and North Korea. On the right is a costume drawing by Director Geum. / Photo: Chosun DB

Costume worn by a placard bearer at the 2018 PyeongChang Winter Olympics. / Seoul Museum of Craft Art
Light,
Line, and the Transformation of Material
Structured
across five sections, the exhibition reveals the evolution of Geum’s material
language. In “Dreaming,” the origins of her practice are traced to childhood
memories of threading persimmon blossoms into necklaces. The work Baekmae
(2024), inspired by a white plum blossom tree, appears to hover weightlessly in
space, its delicate wire structure woven with beads that shimmer subtly as
light shifts. The piece evokes both temporal passage and quiet vitality.

Part II of the exhibition space, where Geum Kisook’s expansive artistic spectrum unfolds. / Photo : Seoul Museum of Craft Art
“Dancing”
foregrounds experimental dress works that emerged in the 1990s. Spider
Lady – Web Dress (1997), inspired by dew caught in a spider’s
web, translates fragility and hope into a lattice of wire and beads. Earlier
landmark works, including Jinsa Celadon Lotus Dress
(1995), exhibited at the inaugural Gwangju Biennale’s International Art Garment
Exhibition, underscore her longstanding engagement with the porous boundary
between fashion and fine art.
The
‘Enlightening’ series moves decisively beyond garment-based structures into
relief installations that occupy walls and architectural space. Lines formed by
wire and beads intersect with directed light to produce shifting shadows and
reflective surfaces, transforming the exhibition environment into an immersive
sculptural field. In recent works, discarded wire, foil packaging, straws, and
sponges introduce an ecological dimension, linking fashion art to questions of
reuse and sustainability.

Early work created by weaving wire into circular forms, Dancing Energy II, 1999, wire, beads, textile. / Photo: Seoul Museum of Craft Art
Translating
the Line of Tradition
A
central axis of the exhibition is Geum’s sustained inquiry into Korean dress
aesthetics. Educated in clothing and textiles and later in costume aesthetics,
she has examined the sensibility embedded in Joseon-era attire. Traditional
garments such as the jeogori, dangui, jikryeong, and hakchangui are
reinterpreted through immaterial structures of wire and beads.
Curvilinear
forms unfold in midair like drawn lines, while beads and sequins function as
chromatic surfaces, activating color and light. These works may be understood
as translations of traditional formal principles—line, rhythm, and negative
space—into a contemporary material vocabulary. Revisiting the Snow
Flower Fairy costume on the eve of the 2026 Milan–Cortina Winter
Olympics further underscores how Korean sculptural language has been visualized
and remembered within global cultural events.
Toward
Documentation and Discourse
Geum
Kisook has played a pivotal role in shaping the field of fashion art, serving
as president of the Korea Fashion Culture Association and as the inaugural
president of the International Federation of Fashion Art (IFAA). Her donation
marks more than the transfer of objects; it positions fashion art as a subject
of research, preservation, and institutional discourse within public
collections.
During
the exhibition period, sixteen workshops and an artist talk will be organized,
with the artist directly participating in half of the sessions. These programs
expand the exhibition beyond display, reinforcing fashion art as a site of
pedagogy and critical exchange.
Moving
beyond the functional logic of clothing and extending from the body into
architectural space, Geum Kisook’s practice weaves immaterial scenes through
light and line. Traversing craft and fine art, spectacle and public space, her
fashion art claims its place as a distinct artistic language—one that continues
to expand the boundaries of what fashion can become.
Exhibition
Information
Title:
《Dancing, Dreaming, Enlightening》
Artist: Geum Kisook
Dates: December 23, 2025 – March 15, 2026
Venue: Exhibition Hall 1, 3F (Special Exhibition Gallery) and 1F Lobby, Seoul
Museum of Craft Art
Organizer: Seoul Museum of Craft Art
Website: https://craftmuseum.seoul.go.kr/exhibit/plan/view/174








